Domestic vs Industrial Machines

Domestic sewing machines or consumer sewing machines are cheap and versatile. Most can sew a multitude of stitch types but because they are not single purpose built they tend to do each task worse than a dedicated machine. For example, a multi-purpose domestic machine may have an edge stitch function to try to capture fraying fabric edges, but it would be no match for even a domestic serger.

All domestics sewing machines can sew in a straight line, but they will be limited in the thickness of fabric that they can sew through, and the number of layers of even thin fabric that they can simultaneously sew through as well as the maximum thread weight that can be used. Generally, if one is careful, they can work around these issues. But eventually the strength and specific built purpose of industrial machines is essential to make sewn objects.

Basic Sewing Machine Parts

• Bobbin
• Needle
• Feed Dogs
• Bobbin Case
• Needle Bar
• Presser Foot
• Rotary Hook
• Bobbin Winder
• Thread Routing
• Thread Tensioner
• Tension Spring
• Stitch Length Adjuster
• Reverse Stitch Lever
• Tension Discs
• Thread Spool Holder
• Motor

Types of Machines

• Lock Stich
• Serger
• Specific Task Designed Industrial Machines
  • cover stitch machine
  • overarm flat felling machine
  • webbing cross stitch
  • jeans riveter
  • Bar Tack

Machine Sewn Seams

Sewing manufacturing seams are classified by standards. ISO 4916 is an international standardization of seam types separated into 8 different classes of seams. Outside of the apparel industry and factory technical specification sheets there are essential machine sewn seams than every person who sews should know.

Stitch Classes

• 301 Lock Stitch
• 401 Chain Stitch
• 600 Cover Stitch

ISO 4916 Seam Classes

Class 1 Superimposed Seams

Superimposed Seams put one or more pieces of fabric on top of each other, or stacked / Superimposed and then stich them together. These are the most common types of seams and are what most people think of when imagining sewing seams.

Class 2 Lapped Seams

Two pieces of fabric have their edges lapped and are joined with one or more rows of stitches. Lapped seams included the felled seam common in jeans as well as the french seam.

Class 3 Bound Seams

Uses a binding strip to enclose the edges of the plies of fabric joined with one or more rows of stitching in the seam.

Class 4 Flat Seams

Joins fabric together with minimal increase in thickness. The two pieces of fabric do not overlap, they are butt together along the seam. Often used in undergarments or knitted garments.

Class 5 Decorative / Ornamental Stitching

Stitching in straight of curved lines on single layers of fabric such as the decorative stitching on the back pockets of jeans.

Class 6 Edge Finishing / Neatening

A single ply fabric edge is folded or stitched. This class included serging and hemming of single layers of fabric.

Class 7 Attaching of Separate Items

Need a second component to attach to the edge of another piece of fabric such as a waistband.

Class 8 Single Ply Construction

Items made from a single piece of fabric with both edges turned in such as belt loops or straps. Usually made with a folder.