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How to Sew a Zipper Fly and Waistband

This tutorial will show how to sew a zipper fly and waistband using a straight stitch sewing machine


To complete this tutorial you should be familiar with


Pieces Needed

  1. Cut out 2 front pants pieces at shorts length from scrap fabric.
  2. Cut out fly facing
  3. Cut fly guard
  4. Cut two half waistband pieces
  5. Zipper


Mark the length of your zipper on the pants pieces and the fly facing, should be just past the teeth of the zipper Attach interfacing to the fly facing Finish the edges of the fly guard if it is not cur on the selvage. Fold it right sides together and stitch a 1/4" seam allowance along the bottom short end Turn the fly guard right side out and use a pointy object to turn the corners sharp Then press with iron Lay the fly facing right side to right side of left pants front ( or right depending on which side you want the zipper) Sew a 1/2" seam allowance until the zipper stop mark Understitch the fly facing catching the seam allowance, stitch very close to the edge, stitch to the zipper mark on the pants Change presser foot on sewing machine to zipper foot Lay zipper upside down on the pants leg opposite the fly facing Stitch the zipper tape to the pants, with a 1/4" seam allowance lay the fly guard right on top and stitch again at 1/4" Top stitch through the pants leg past the zipper stop. Do not catch the fly guard Place pants legs together, right side to right side Start at center crotch and stitch the same seam allowance as the fly facing Make sure the fly facing is lining up on both pants pieces Lay the pants flat, pin the top front Fold over the pants leg with the facing Pinch the fly facing and zipper tightly. Fold other fabric out of the way and then stitch the zipper tape to the fly facing. Move the fly guard out of the way Start at the top and stitch a J-Stitch down to the center seam, at the center seam, sew back and forth Can bar tack the the fly guard to the J-Stitch Press a seam allowance along the long side of the waistband Put the unpressed right side of the waistband to the wrong side of the top of the pants. Looking at the pants, the right sides of the fabric of the pants and waistband are facing up with the waistband at the bottom. Fold waistband in half with right sides together Stitch the short side of the waistband closed by the edge of the pants. Stitch close so the edge is even. Trim the seam allowance and corner. Turn out the corner. Repeat on other side of pants Press and topstitch, make sure the front covers previous stitching and catches edge in the back Stitch all the way around.

Further Reading