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03.04 Pants Pattern Shape Notes

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Waistband

The top edge of the pants pattern, the waist seam, does not need to be a perfectly straight, perfectly horizontal line. Real bodies aren’t a cylinder. It is common on many pants for the waist seam to rise slightly at center back so they don’t dip when you sit or bend over. Some waist seams my dip slightly at the center front for a mid-rise or low-rise look.

If the waist seam is noticeably curved, you usually want a shaped or contoured waistband pattern piece rather than just a straight rectangle strip, because the waistband seam must match that curve.

Center Front and Center Back

Even if your center-front seam fly or zipper, or center-back seam is not vertical, the top of the seam should meet the waist seam at a right angle 90°. This prevents the waistband from forming a peak, dent, or weird hook at the front or back. It also helps keep your waist seam true so the waistband attaches smoothly. The hip curve and rise shape can push the seam line off vertical, but the intersection at the waistband should still be squared off to 90°.

Side Seams

The outseam and inseam do not need to be a straight line. It’s totally normal and often necessary for it to taper from the hip to the knee and down to the hem. Or it may stay straighter for wider legs or flare out at the hem for more room or style.

Drafting Tips

  • Keep curves smooth. Avoid flat spots or sudden direction changes.
  • When you tweak one area such as the hip, thigh, or knee re-check the neighboring area so the whole side seam stays smooth.
  • Distribute fit adjustments between the front and back pattern pieces
  • Front inseam length should equal back inseam length
  • Front outseam length should equal back outseam lengt

Double Check Horizontal Widths

Check horizontal widths at consistent levels perpendicular to grainline. Do this on front and back, then add them together to confirm the total circumference matches what you intended plus any ease.

Check horizontal measurements at the:

  • High hip / hip
  • Crotch level
  • Mid-thigh
  • Knee
  • Hem

Pants Shape Diagram