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00.00 Sewing and Fabrication Syllabus

Course Information

Course Number: SEM 268.01, SEM 368.02, SEM 468.01

Department: Sculpture + Expanded Media

Room: 212H & 212K Cleveland Institute of Art

Time: Mondays 9:00 am - 11:00am & 12:00 pm - 2:30 pm

Faculty: Jimmy Kuehnle - jkuehnle@cia.eduexternal link

Office Hours: By appointment

Semester: Spring 2026

Canvas Course Pageexternal link

Course Websiteexternal link

Course Description

This is a sewing and patternmaking class. The class will emphasize skills in machine sewing and related systems for fabrication using flexible materials. Constructing a garment will be the first project. Understanding the construction of a shirt and acquiring skills to assemble it is an ideal way to acquire hands-on skills and also to understand the shape of a surface or skin of any volumetric form. The class will then move on to patternmaking and the techniques of expanding, adding to, subtracting from and morphing a pre-existing pattern. These processes can then be used for constructing skins or shell structures for sculpture, clothing or costume. The emphasis will be on skills and practical information supplemented by images taken from the worlds of fashion, costume design, performance, and sculpture.

Course Goals and Learning Objectives

200 Level

  • Demonstrate introductory knowledge of industrial and domestic lock stitch sewing machines, including safe operation of special use commercial machines such as the serger.
  • Identify and execute basic seam types and their appropriate applications in construction.
  • Demonstrate basic proficiency in flat pattern drafting and the sequencing of operations needed to fabricate a form.
  • Translate 2D concepts into 3D forms, identifying the relationship between volumetric form and surface or skin.
  • Explore traditional and non-traditional materials in the context of sewing as a construction process.
  • Explore the cultural connotations of cloth and how they relate to meaning in a work of art.
  • Practice experimentation and risk-taking in the creation of studio work.
  • Utilize research to begin developing artistic ideas.
  • Participate in critiques to evaluate work and articulate basic analytical ideas regarding the work of peers.

300 Level

  • Demonstrate intermediate proficiency and independence in the operation of industrial, domestic, and special use machines.
  • Analyze and select complex seam types and construction methods
  • Apply flatt pattern drafting to complex fabrication challenges
  • Analyze and resolve the relationship between complex volumetric forms and their skins
  • Integrate non-traditional materials effectively into sewing fabrication systems
  • Move beyond exploration to intentional application of the materiality of cloth and the conceptual intent of the work
  • Demonstrate a consistent methodology of experimentation that informs the direction of finished pieces.
  • Synthesize research into the physical production of the work.
  • Demonstrate an expanding vocabulary in critique, offering specific, actionable, and conceptually grounded feedback to peers.

400 Level

  • Use specific sewing machines to achieve specialized aesthetic or structural results.
  • Innovate new construction processes to facilitate experimental forms.
  • Execute complex pattern drafting and fabrication sequences for ambitious, large-scale, or highly detailed forms with professional-level finish.
  • Subvert or expand upon traditional notions of volume and skin, using the sewing machine to invent novel planar materials and three-dimensional structures.
  • Fabricate stable forms from unconventional media.
  • Articulate a sophisticated understanding of the cultural and historical weight of textiles, positioning one’s own work within or against that history.
  • Develop a self-directed body of work where risk-taking leads to resolved, professional-quality outcomes.
  • Conduct deep, independent research that is clearly legible in the final artwork.
  • Lead critique discussions, demonstrating the ability to deconstruct complex ideas and relate peer work to broader contemporary art discourses.

Course Organization / Method of Instruction

  • This course has 4.5 hours of regularly scheduled instructional time. In addition to the regularly scheduled instructional time, you’ll need to plan on 4 to 6 hours of homework time for each of your classes.
  • This course is a combination of studio work as well as lecture, group dialogue, critiques etc.
  • Projects will sometimes have in-progress reviews in addition to critiques when the projects are finished. The instructor as well as students participate in the critiques and is part of the studio learning experience and a big part of the course.
  • Students must avoid behavior that disrupts the learning process, or that otherwise may be offensive to classmates, or that is disrespectful to the instructor.

Course Schedule & Requirements

WeekDateTopic
1January 12Introduction
January 19MLK Day - No Class
2January 26Pockets
3February 2Pattern Making
4February 9Garment Sewing
5February 16Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
6February 23Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
7March 2Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
March 9Spring Break - No Class
8March 16Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
9March 23Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
10March 30Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
11April 6Lecture / Workshop / Studio Work
12April 13Runway Project
13April 20Studio Work
14April 27Final Crit

Key Dates:

  • January 19 – MLK Day. No Classes
  • March 6 – Mid Term Grades DUE
  • March 9 – 13 – Spring Break. No classes.
  • March 27 – Last day for students to withdraw from a course without a grade penalty
  • April 24 – Final Day of Classes
  • May 9 (Saturday) – Commencement
  • May 11 – Final Grades DUE for all students

Required Textbooks and Readings

Required Supplies

SEM has a most of the supplies that you will need. Some materials will be provided to you and others will be available for purchase at reduced cost on the myCIA store. Depending on your creative intent specific and unique materials may not be available from SEM on the myCIA store and will need to be purchased by the student. An updated list of local and online suppliers is listed on the course website.

Students can expect to spend between $0 - $150 for materials in the course depending on the specifics of their projects.

Required Supplies Provided by Student

  • Sharp fabric scissors
  • Paper cutting scissors
  • Sharpies
  • Pencils
  • Fabric and other materials for projects
  • Additional materials / tools as needed for projects such as commercial patterns, tape, paper, and general making supplies.
  • materials for projects
  • Estimated cost of project materials is $0 - $150

Required Supplies Provided by SEM

  • SEM Sewing Kit that includes a Seam Ripper, Pins, Needles, bobbins in addition to other needed sewing supplies.
  • Thread – SEM supplies black and white thread as well as a variety of heavy-duty thread. Specialty thread not in SEM needs to be provided by the student.
  • SEM has some fabric available to students at no cost. SEM also has some fabric available at highly reduced cost. Some fabric is sold at cost to students but is conveniently already in the studios.

SEM Sewing Kits

The SEM Studio Technician, will checkout a kit to each student on the first day of class. Students will sign an agreement stating they understand the cost and policy. Kits are required to be returned if a student withdraws from the course or the semester has ended. The SEM Technical Specialist will collect the kits on the final day of class. Items missing from the kits will be charged to the respective student’s account.

When leaving the sewing room, students must pack up their kits and take them with them. If any SEM Faculty or Staff find items left in the machines, items or kits lying around, they will be confiscated. This is the same policy as the School Wide Checkout.

Course Policies and Expectations

Critiques

You’re required to contribute to all critiques, even if your own project is not complete. Successful crits depend on each student’s generosity in sharing their honest thoughts, opinions and suggestions!

Late Work

Projects must be turned in on time. On time is before the beginning of class on the day that they are due or other time as specified by the instructor. Late projects will automatically drop 1% per day late up to a maximum total reduction of 40% per assignment.

Documentation

File Management

Canvas Course Pageexternal link

Sewing Room Access Policy

Students only have access to the sewing room while they are actively taking a Sewing Course. Taking this course or other Sewing Courses by no means grants students future access.

Students who wish for access while not actively enrolled in the Sewing Course must contact the SEM Chair for policy details. The Sewing Room has a prox lock. Students are responsible to have their ID Cards on them at all times.

Cleveland Institute of Art Required Policy Language

“AI” Policy

No Restrictions.

Accessibility Statement

CIA is committed to ensuring that students with documented disabilities have equal access to our educational programs and activities. If you have, or believe you may have, a disability that may interfere with your ability to participate in the activities, coursework, or assessments of this course, you may be eligible for accommodations.

If you are a student with a disability and wish to request accommodations, please contact Wellness & Accessibility Services, located in Room 120, to arrange a confidential discussion about your need for accommodations. Wellness & Accessibility Services can be reached at disabilityservices@cia.eduexternal link . For more information, please visit my.cia.edu/ICS/Departments/Accessibility__Disability_Services/external link .

Diversity & Inclusion Statement

The Cleveland Institute of Art recognizes and embraces diversity and believes that an outstanding education in art and design should be accessible to all individuals regardless of ethnicity, race, religion, age, gender identity, sexual orientation, national origin, socio-economic status or disability. It is essential for the College to advance diversity by encouraging our community to share a responsibility in creating, maintaining and developing an environment in which difference is valued, equity is sought, and inclusiveness is practiced.

CIA Course Attendance Policy from the College Catalog

Course Attendance

Students are expected to attend all sessions of the classes in which they are registered and to attend all associated lecture programs and meetings. Progress as an artist depends not only on completion of assignments but also on full participation in dialogue with studio and academic classes. All absences will count towards a student’s absence total for the semester unless approved as an extenuating circumstance absence by the Dean of Students. Students are responsible for all missed class material, including assignments and tests, when absent from class. Each faculty member is required to take, and to maintain records of, class attendance. CIA’s absence limits are as follows:

Course TypeAbsence Limit*
Course meeting once a weekNo more than 3 absences per semester**
Course meeting twice a weekNo more than 6 absences per semester
Independent StudyParticipation and attendance expectations are at the discretion of the faculty member.

* Faculty may factor tardiness into determining if a student is absent. Tardiness policies should be stated on the course syllabus. ** note: for studio courses that meet in 2 sessions over 1 day, missing one of the two sessions will be counted as 0.5 absence

To uphold the integrity of the educational content and curricula, absences exceeding the limits as outlined above will result in failure of the course in which the absences occurred. A student who exceeds the absence limit in any class should meet with their Academic Advisor to discuss the impact of the course failure on their academic progress.

An absence from a final critique or exam will result in automatic failure of the project or exam.

Notification of Absences

For pre-planned absences, students must notify their faculty member that they will be absent. For absences due to unforeseen circumstance, students should contact their faculty member as soon as possible before or after the absence occurs. To protect a student’s privacy, evidence of an illness, injury, obituary and any other documentation of an absence are not required, requested, or accepted by faculty.

Absence Due to Religious Observance

Students who plan to be absent due to religious observances should notify their faculty members at least 2 weeks prior to the pre-planned absence. These absences count against the absence limit and students are responsible for all missed work.

Absence Due to Extenuating Circumstances

The absence limits as described above, are adequate for minor illnesses, doctor’s appointments, transportation issues, weather concerns and other instances that are not exceptionally rare and unforeseen. In the case of an absence due to extenuating circumstances that a student wishes to not count against the absence limits listed above, the student must submit the Extenuating Circumstance Absence Request Formexternal link within 10 calendar days (limited exceptions apply) of the absence for review by the Dean of Students. The use of this form should be extremely limited as most absences do not qualify as extenuating.

Extenuating circumstances are generally defined as exceptionally rare, unforeseen, and short-term circumstances which may cause a student to be absent from class. These terms are defined as follows:

  • Exceptionally rare is defined as a circumstance that is markedly different from the student’s usual daily life activities.
  • Unforeseen is defined as a circumstance that is outside of the student’s control and was not preventable. This includes the student’s responsibility for making a reasonable attempt at utilizing Institute-provided resources, policies and procedures available to assist in their success.
  • Short-term is defined as a circumstance that is temporary and will not require on-going intervention past a reasonable time period.

Upon receiving the Extenuating Circumstance Absence Request Form, the Dean of Students will make a determination as to the classification of the absence as approved or not approved or will request additional outstanding/clarification information from the student. The student and faculty member(s) will be notified via CIA email of the determination no later than 10 calendar days after the request and all necessary information is received by the Dean of Students. Sharing of information impacting the decision will be at the sole discretion of the Dean of Students and will prioritize student privacy and dignity. If an absence is deemed approved as an extenuating circumstance, it will not be counted in the absence limits noted above and the student will be responsible for all missed work and course requirements for the approved date(s). The student will be required to make arrangements with the faculty member(s) to determine a reasonable timeline for completing missed work and course requirements for the approved date(s). This timeline will be at the sole discretion of the faculty member.

In the case of an absence submitted via the Extenuating Circumstance Absence Request Form which is determined to be not approved by the Dean of Students, the student may file an appeal with the Vice President of Academic Affairs + Provost within 3 calendar days on specific grounds. Disagreement with the decision alone is not sufficient for an appeal. Appeals must be submitted via CIA email to gwatts@cia.eduexternal link with rasauber@cia.eduexternal link copied and must include the student’s name and ID number and must indicate on which ground the student believes the decision should be appealed (options below):

  1. Through no fault of the student, Information/documentation pertinent to the decision was missing at the time of the decision. Note: The student will be required to submit the additional information/documentation as part of the appeal along with an explanation of why the information/documentation was not provided in the original request.
  2. Through no fault of the student, Institute policy was not followed and had a direct impact on the decision at the time of the decision. Note The student will be required to identify which policy was not followed, documentation showing the policy was not followed, and a description of how the decision may have been different if policy had been followed.

Upon receiving an appeal request, the Vice President of Academic Affairs + Provost will make a determination as to the classification of the original decision as upheld or overturned or will request additional outstanding/clarification information from the student. The student, faculty member(s), and Dean of Students will be notified via CIA email of the determination no later than 10 calendar days after the request and all necessary information is received by the Vice President of Academic Affairs + Provost. Decisions that are overturned will result in the absence being classified as extenuating and the absence will not be counted in the absence limits noted above and the student will be responsible for all missed work and course requirements for the approved date(s). The student will be required to make arrangements with the faculty member(s) to determine a reasonable timeline for completing missed work and course requirements for the approved date(s). This timeline will be at the sole discretion of the faculty member. Decisions that are upheld will maintain an absence classification as not approved. All appeal decisions are final and binding.

Important Notes:
  • Students receiving approved extenuating circumstance absences are not guaranteed to pass their courses.
  • Students are able to fail a course due to exceeding the absence limits beyond approved extenuating circumstance absences.
  • Students are able to fail a course due to not completing course requirements regardless of approved extenuating circumstance absences.
  • Students are encouraged to meet with their faculty members and Academic Advisor to discuss their options for success in their courses when they are experiencing absences (whether due to extenuating circumstances or otherwise).

Extracurricular Life and Class Attendance

At CIA, we value students’ total educational experience, including its curricular, co-curricular, and extracurricular components. All departments, academic and other, are encouraged to minimize the scheduling during established class meeting hours of events at which student participation is required or desired, including but not limited to extra class meetings, professional development opportunities, field trips, and other organized activities. When conflicts exist, all parties (students, faculty, and staff) should work together so that the student can meet their academic obligations and participate in extracurricular events. If agreement about an appropriate accommodation cannot be reached, the student’s obligations to classes meeting on their posted schedules will take priority.

Class Trips Policy from the College Catalog

All students attending instruction-related trips or tours that require them to travel away from CIA must sign an approved release form in advance of the trip that declares they will not make a claim against the college or its personnel/representatives for injury or damage sustained while on the trip. Release forms should be returned to the faculty member leading the trip before the event. All CIA policies are in effect during sponsored excursions away from campus.

CIA Grading Policies and Grade Descriptions from the College Catalog

Letter grades are a means by which faculty members communicate their professional assessment of students’ work. The primary purpose of assigning grades is to provide a realistic standard of reference by which students can measure their progress while enrolled at CIA.

Grades are reported twice each semester: mid-term grades after the first eight weeks, and final grades at the close of the term. The mid-term grade is a preliminary indication of progress to date.

Semester and cumulative grade point averages are reviewed by Academic Services each term to determine each student’s academic status. Each transcript includes the semester Grade Point Average (GPA) and the cumulative GPA. Letter grades have the following meaning:

A, A-: Work of consistently outstanding quality, which displays originality, and often goes beyond course requirements;

B+, B, B-: Work of consistently good quality, demonstrating a high level of proficiency, knowledge, and skills in all aspects of the course;

C+, C, C-: Satisfactory work that meets the requirements of the course and conforms to the standards for graduation.

D+, D, D-: Work deficient in concept or execution but acceptable for course credit in all courses.

F: Work unacceptable for course credit and does not meet the standards for graduation.

CIA Policy on Plagiarism and Academic Dishonesty excerpted from the Student Handbook:

All acts of academic dishonesty diminish the integrity of the Institute and are taken very seriously by the school. Students being accused of Academic Dishonestly will participate in our judicial process and if found responsible, will be subject to appropriate sanctions. Sanctions may include, but are not limited to any one or a combination of the following:

  • Formal warning/censure/academic alert.
  • Reduced grade including a failing grade for the assignment.
  • Reduced grade including a failing grade for the entire course.
  • Forfeiture of student leadership positions, and/or restrictions on participation in Institute activities.
  • Academic probation
  • Suspension
  • Expulsion from the Institute.

CIA Course Evaluation Policy

All students are expected to fill out a brief course evaluation for each class at the end of the semester. Your participation in the course evaluation process is critical to CIA’s evaluation of faculty teaching, assessment of student learning outcomes, and identification of opportunities for continuous improvement to course content and instruction. Please take a moment to respond to the evaluation when directed to do so at the end of the semester. Your thoughts matter.